FOOD IN THE EAST END
Morito.
Moro and Morito chef proprietors, Sam & Sam Clark, opened their third restaurant, located at 195 Hackney Road in 2016.
Morito Hackney Road's Head Chef, Sevan Tchivitdji, draws influences from Southern Spain, North Africa and the Eastern Mediterranean including the island of Crete
Morito has a concise offering of wines from the Mediterranean - primarily mainland Spain and Portugal - with a couple of lesser-known wines from the Canary Islands. There is a selection of sparkling, white, red, pink, and orange wines, with many available by the glass. For those looking to venture past these, there is also a list of Sherry and Vermouth.
The restaurant has been designed in collaboration with artist Dillwyn Smith and features a horseshoe-shaped marble-topped, bar, polished concrete floor, bright shots of colour, an inviting open kitchen and large windows allowing for a light and airy space. Further contributions came from Hackney-based designer Sam Newton.
The first rule of Rochelle Canteen club is knowing how to actually find the damn place. After battling the chaos that is the current state of Old Street tube station, my dining companion texts me a plaintive ‘I’m lost’, as she attempts to find this extremely well-hidden restaurant, entry to which is strictly on a need-to know basis.
To save any faff, we’ll clue you in now. First, find the door in the brick wall on the south-east side of Arnold Circus. Next to it is a brace of buzzers, one discreetly marked ‘Canteen’. Press it. You’ll soon be whisked into a walled garden wonderland. In the spring and summer, it’s a verdant delight. In the colder months, it definitely still has its charm, but you’ll be dining in the plastic gazebo which is propped up against the Victorian school bikesheds where Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson’s formerly daytime-only spot is based. https://rochellecanteen.com/
Rochelle Canteen
Brawn, Columbia Road, near Shoreditch (www.brawn.co): Mediterranean small plates menu with an “all things pork” section in two simple but stylish rooms. (Pictured left)
Columbia Road: On Sunday the street is transformed into oasis of foliage and flowers. Everything from bedding plants to 10-foot banana trees is up for grabs. The air is intense with the scent of flowers and the chant of the barrow boys: “Everthin' a fiver.” (Pictured left)
Brawn.
Polentina
A small, glass enclosed restaurant within sustainable clothing manufacturer, Apparel Tasker. We are open Wednesday to Saturday for lunch, and Friday and Saturday evenings for dinner.
“We offer a small, daily changing menu of humble, home style cooking.” Yes they do!! www.polentina.com
Bruno
Bruno in Victoria Park, East London is a cosy, intimate wine bar and bottle shop right on Victoria Park Road that locals and visitors alike adore for its warm atmosphere, excellent wine selection, and small, flavour‑forward dishes. Housed in a converted 19th‑century stable with whitewashed walls, a teak bar, and candlelit tables, Bruno exudes relaxed, everyday elegance with a neighbourhood vibe that feels both welcoming and special. The wine list is a highlight, featuring a carefully curated range of natural, biodynamic, orange, red, white, rosé and sparkling wines—many available by the glass or bottle—and the staff are happy to guide you to something perfect for your meal. Rotating chef residencies bring fresh perspectives to the kitchen, serving up seasonal small plates and bar snacks with big flavour, from sardines with butter beans and roastables to smoked cod’s roe and pickled shallots, making it an ideal spot for a date night, casual dinner, or leisurely afternoon with friends. Whether you’re enjoying it as a go‑to local gem or showing it off to visitors, Bruno is a charming, lively taste of London’s vibrant wine and dining scene that we absolutely love. www.bruno-london.com
Waterhouse Project
This place is ace! The Water House Project was set up by Gabriel Waterhouse, former chef at 1 Michelin-stared Galvin La Chapelle in 2015, intending to bridge the gap between fine dining elegance and relaxed, comfortable and informal atmospheres.
Menus are monthly changing, reliant on local, seasonal ingredients when they are at their best. They believe in using small amounts of ethically and sustainably reared meat and fish, and partnering with suppliers who share in their values. Wines come from small scale producers across Europe who use traditional, low intervention methods of wine making, putting back into the soil what they take out.
They serve a 9-course tasting menu paired with wines and offer an at Home delivery service of 6 courses, also with wine, to easily be put together and enjoyed from the comfort of your home.
www.thewaterhouseproject.com
Nest
Nest in Shoreditch (nestfood.co.uk): British, seasonal tasting menus in a relaxed & homely environment.
Our menus are driven by the incredible & varied produce of the British Isles and we pride ourselves on working with the very best producers, small-scale farmers, foragers and conservationists. By using one meat in the kitchen at a time, taking a nose-to-tail approach and making sure nothing goes to waste, we manage meat consumption in a sustainable way.
Each dish on our menu focusses on two hero ingredients, offering a snapshot of our favourite flavours across the year. We use a variety of different cooking techniques, including our signature open-flame cooking, and make our own preserves and pickles.
The drinks list, and optional wine pairing, has a strong focus on drinks with low-intervention production methods. These are wines, spirits, ciders & beers that are full of life & represent the way we feel all agricultural products should be made, farmed or reared: with a focus on respect – towards the natural environment and everyone involved in the process.
Inis.
Bloody incredible! Derived from the Irish word for "island" (pronounced "inish"), this cozy spot feels right at home by the water, nestled at the meeting point of the Lee Navigation and the Hertford Union Canal, on Fish Island (which is unrecognisable from the last time I was here 20 years ago)
It’s the creation of the bloody lovely local duo Lindsey and Lyndsy, a wife-and-wife team. Lynsey, formally a director at The Ginger Pig butchers and now a consultant for Borough Market, takes care of the Front of House with Lindsay, a designer and art director working within the food and arts industries. Chef Craig Johnson (formally of Arbutus, The Corner Room and Newington Table) heads up the kitchen, with a focus on seasonality, sustainability and top quality produce.
Inis celebrates the best of British and Irish flavours, guided by a commitment to sustainability and seasonal produce. Innovative and resourceful, the menu transforms every ingredient into something absolutely memorable. www.inisfishisland.com
St. John’s
St. John's in Spitalfields (www.stjohngroup.uk.com): There is also one a short hop away in Smithfields. Both are great. The Smithfields one is next to the meat market and is very nose-to-tail dining oriented. Smithfields Meat Market has traded meat and livestock (latterly just meat) for 800 years. The Spitalfields one has a broader menu and some excellent breads, in fact it is called Bead & Wine.
Camille.
Camille in Borough Market (www.camillerestaurant.co.uk): Camille in Borough Market is a standout spot where simplicity meets excellence. The menu celebrates fresh, seasonal ingredients with dishes that feel both comforting and refined—each plate showcasing impeccable technique and bold, honest flavours. Whether you’re popping in for a relaxed lunch or a special treat, Camille delivers a consistently delightful dining experience right in the heart of London’s iconic market. If you haven’t discovered it yet, it’s definitely worth a visit!
The menu at Camille is a true celebration of French culinary expertise. Guests rave about the remarkable dishes, particularly the adventurous use of unique ingredients. Reviews from customers like Koolkitty and Aimee Shaw shine a spotlight on standout plates such as the exquisitely prepared schnitzel and the rich crab bisque. The focus on sharing plates allows diners to explore a variety of flavors, turning each meal into an exciting culinary journey.
One of Camille's most talked-about dishes is the pigs head, an intriguing choice that reflects the restaurant's dedication to showcasing lesser-known delicacies, appealing to adventurous eaters seeking a unique gastronomic experience. The dishes are not only prepared with finesse but also beautifully presented, ensuring that every plate served is a feast for both the eyes and the palate. The wine selection complements the menu flawlessly, as noted by Marc Millington-Buck, who enjoyed the thoughtful pairings with his meal. The staff's genuine passion for their offerings adds to the overall enjoyment, as they guide diners through the menu with enthusiasm and expertise.
Borough Market is more than just a restaurant; it’s a delightful escape into the world of French cuisine, where authenticity meets creativity. For anyone craving a unique and memorable dining experience in London, Camille comes highly recommended. Just remember to book in advance to secure your spot in this enchanting enclave of culinary delight!
Little Duck The Picklery.
The large marble table in the centre of this ‘fermenting kitchen’ also doubles as a display area, with jars and plates in the middle and chairs along one side. Anywhere you sit, expect an eyeful of the pickling projects. There’s even a muslin bag suspended from the ceiling, containing the Picklery’s own labneh, of course. Little Duck/ The Picklery lives up to its name – it’s basically a sexy, edible version of the Grant Museum of Zoology. (littleduckpicklery.co.uk)
Bistrotheque
Bethnal Green, 30-minute walk up the canal from the flat, (www.bistrotheque.com): Modern European restaurant in white-painted converted warehouse, with bar and private dining room. It’s housed in a converted clothing factory in the East End (a street away from where I ran a warehouse gallery in the early 90s).
Casa Fofo
Casa Fofò is a small neighbourhood eatery in the heart of Hackney. They offer a set menu featuring seasonal ingredients sourced by local producers. It’s lovely. www.casafofolondon.co.uk
Portuguese Love Affair
“We have opened our first shop in August 2013 on Columbia Road (the Flower Market). In 2016, a few minutes away from this shop, we have opened what we think is the side B of Portugal, a Deli/restaurant with loads of yummy food and produce from Portugal. But A Portuguese Love Affair is more than a cafe or a shop or a restaurant, we love people and we love our neighbourhood.”
The Clove Club.
The Clove Club, Shoreditch (www.thecloveclub.com): Britain's highest-ranked entry in the World's 50 Best Restaurants awards. Located inside Shoreditch Town Hall, a space now transformed into an arts and events venue, The Clove Club opened in March 2013 thanks to a successful crowd-funding initiative. The restaurant prides itself on its relaxed atmosphere where guests don't have to worry about being "hassled" by staff. The Clove Club earned its Michelin star in 2014. Fairly expensive.
12:51
This is actually North London, but happens to be yards from my first home in London back in 1987.
12:51 is James Cochran's signature restaurant. With parents from St. Vincent in the Caribbean and Glasgow, Scotland, he grew up by the sea in Whitstable, Kent - a mixed-heritage reflected in his innovative and exciting dishes. After getting his first job at Wheeler’s Oyster Bar in his hometown, his talent took him to the world-renowned, two-Michelin-starred, The Ledbury - where he honed his skills under mentor Brett Graham - before he went on to run the kitchen at Michelin-starred gastropub The Harwood Arms.
He opened 12:51 in Islington, north London in 2018 - the same year he won the BBC’s Great British Menu - a feat he repeated in 2020. A winner of the prestigious Eater London Chef of The Year, James also runs Around the Cluck offering a gourmet twist on the classic fried chicken takeaway.
Manteca
Shoreditch, not far from Lyles.
A nose-to-tail italian-inspired restaurant. we focus on whole-animal butchery, hand-rolled pastas, wood-fired breads, and our own in-house salumeria. www.mantecarestaurant.co.uk
